When I walked into Pastaria, a new Italian restaurant situated in the new Centene Plaza in downtown Clayton, I did not quite know what to expect. The owner of, and creative brain behind Pastaria as well as three other St. Louis restaurants, Gerard Craft, described it as a casual restaurant with fancy food.
The uniquely decorated interior appeared to be a combination of urban-modern design, and grandma’s kitchen. The plain, rectangular butcher block tables, the use of jars as cups, and the unfinished concrete floors contributed to the laid back feel.
After reviewing the menu, I decided to try the crispy risotto balls as an appetizer. They did not disappoint, as they offered a perfect, crisp outer layer with a soft, rich inside. For my main entrée, I chose the Papardelle, a long, wide noodle, with smoked pork, mascarpone cheese and apples. As I waited for my meal to arrive, I was offered delicious fresh baked bread. Olive oil, salt and pepper were each laid out in a small dish on the table.
When the main dishes arrived, the first thing I noticed when I bit into my pasta was the perfect al dente, which I had yet to encounter at a St. Louis restaurant.
The pork was juicy and tender and left a perfect smoky taste throughout the dish. The apples absorbed all the flavors and added a great subtle touch of sweetness. My dish tasted fancy, and while I was just a mile from my home, I felt like I was in a five star restaurant.
For dessert, I tried their gelato, which was offered in a variety of strange and interesting flavors including olive oil and goat cheese. I went with the mascarpone pine nut brittle, which was delivered in a tall, chilled metal bowl. Considering the 6.95 price, the quantity was less than I expected, but delicious, thick and rich quality of the gelato made it worth it.
By the time I walked out of Pastaria, I was excited, and extremely full. Pastaria was a winner. While it seemed a bit off from its advertised casual feel and affordable prices, the food was absolutely delicious, and the atmosphere charming.
